AD Design Show 2023 Highlights Indian Textiles and Contemporary Craftsmanship

In the heart of Mumbai, the AD Design Show made a grand return for its fourth edition today! AD India, the country’s leading design magazine, has curated a diverse program speaking to various interests in the field of design and aesthetics.

The AD Design Show 2023 was inaugurated with a welcome note by AD India’s Head of Editorial Content Komal Sharma. Followed by the revealing of Shankha, an installation by Shilo Shiv Suleman. In her latest installation, the award winning artist, reclaims the sensuality of India’s architectural past by creating a larger than life cowrie shell that acts as an object of worship in the center of the show.

This was accompanied by an exclusive garment presentation by Sanjay Garg’s Raw Mango featuring the collection ‘AGAMA’ which the design house has been researching and developing over the last few years. The garments in this presentation draw inspiration from the silhouettes seen in Central Asia by travellers and nomadic tribes. The collection is dedicated to textile matriarch Suraiya Hassan Bose (1928-2011) whose encouragement and enthusiasm led the brand to this. Seen at the presentation were Abhay Deol, Mini Mathur, Aahana Kumra, Krishna Shroff and more.

Mrs Nita Mukesh Ambani along with Isha Ambani Piramal also visited the AD Design Show.

Komal Sharma, Head of Editorial Content, AD India said "This year the AD Design Show has a strong focus on textiles. There is a historic tent called the Lal Dera which lies in the Mehrangarh Museum Trust in Jodhpur. It is a spectacular example of mediaeval textile architecture. As a tribute to that, we invited leading architect Sameep Padora of sP+a to do a contemporary iteration of it. Apart from that, a lot of the brands are textile forward like Ritu Kumar, Abraham and Thakore, Satya Paul. Of course, there's the favourite Karigar pavilion which features seven craft ateliers from all over the country. AD Design Show is about bringing the community of artists, designers, architects, people who love textiles, aesthetics and craftsmanship all together and have a great big celebration."

The central highlight of the show is the contemporary interpretation of “Lal Dera”. The AD team took inspiration from the original Lal Dera, the most spectacular decorative object from the Mughal era that lies with the Mehrangarh Museum Trust in Jodhpur, crafted out of red silk and velvet, and heavily embroidered with gold thread. AD invited sP+a’s Sameep Padora to reimagine this textile architecture, which will also form an intimate space for talks and sessions. Inside the “Lal Dera” features a hand knotted rug crafted by Jaipur Rugs with intricate all-over floral motifs, resembling lush gardens in full bloom along with flooring courtesy of Symphony International.

In addition, the show’s Power Talks promise to be a captivating journey into the worlds of craftsmanship, vernacular architecture, contemporary reinterpretations of history, and the making of a museum. Notably, Sabyasachi Mukherjee will discuss taking the best of India to the world, and the Maharani of Baroda, Radhikaraje Gaekwad will share her insights in a conversation with Ashiesh Shah moderated by Gayatri Rangachari Shah. Visionaries like Asaf Ali of Kashmir Loom and Maximiliano Modesti will explore the universal language of artistry, while architects Samuel Barclay and Palinda Kannangara will showcase the harmonious coexistence of tradition and innovation in architecture. These Power Talks are set to enrich the minds of attendees, offering a deeper understanding of the intricate world of design and culture.

The Power to the Karigar Pavillion powered by JSW makes a grand return this year with seven karigars from across the country. The Karigars featured are:

• Gudari Making by Kalbelia Craft Revival Project x Kota Heritage Society - Kota, Rajasthan
• Contemporary Miniature Art by Riyazuddin x Kaash - Jaipur, Rajasthan
• Nakshi Kantha by Mahua Lahiri x Hushnohana - Kolkata, West Bengal
• Embroidery by Ravi Dhanabal x Julia & Sita - Chennai, Tamil Nadu
• Art of Weaving by Thiyagarajan X Neytt - Kerala
• Natural Fibre Futures by Mahadevamma x The Kishkinda Trust - Karnataka
• Kathkuni by Thakar Chand x North Studio - Himachal Pradesh

Additional installations at the show include Sarnath and Tree of Life, designed at Good Earth and created by artisans in Bhuj and Benares. Inspired by the travelling traditions of nomadic communities, and the vibrant exchange of ideas and crafts, the quilts represent a shared South Asian tradition of extraordinary textiles. Sanjay Garg’s Raw Mango will be displaying a museum-style glass cabinet showcasing garments from the collection ‘AGAMA’. A grand Olive tree in an autumn glow of warm copper by Alex Davis Studio. CMYK presents a custom built book pavilion that showcases a curated collection of luxury books. featuring a collection of luxury books sourced from the finest publishers globally. Wittman by Beyond&more’s installation at the show, features The Kubus Armchair: A Josef Hoffmann Masterpiece (1910), Vuelta Armchair: A Fusion of Artistry by Jaime Hayon (2016) and Tuky Side Table: Luca Nichetto's Modern Craftsmanship (2022). KMA’s series of bespoke landscape collectibles reflects its respect for nature and innate sensitivity to ecology.